Quick answer: Most Starlink dropouts aren't a Starlink problem - they're a mounting problem. Wobbly fixings, wind sway, poor angle, low placement and bad cable routing are the top culprits, and every one of them is fixable with the right mount.
Before you blame Starlink, check your mount
Streaming buffers. Video calls freeze. The dish icon in the app keeps showing obstruction warnings even though you swear there's nothing in the way. Sound familiar? Nine times out of ten, this isn't a Starlink hardware issue - it's how (or where) it's mounted.
Here's what's actually going wrong, and how to fix each one.
1. It's not actually locked in place
The problem: Anything balanced, propped, or "kind of secured" moves. Even a few degrees of drift off its calibrated position and the dish starts losing satellites.
The fix: A proper fixed mount - wall, roof or pole - locks the angle permanently. No drift, no dropouts.
2. Wind sway on a flimsy fixing
The problem: A dish that rocks in the wind is constantly micro-adjusting its satellite lock, which tanks performance and can trigger repeated reconnects.
The fix: Rigid, properly fixed mounting hardware - not a zip-tie-and-hope situation. Our mounts are built to handle genuine Aussie wind loads without flexing.
3. Too low, too blocked
The problem: Ground-level or low placement means fences, gutters, trees and even parked cars can clip your signal cone.
The fix: Extra height solves this almost every time. A roof mount or pole mount gets you above the mess.
4. Cable strain pulling on the connector
The problem: An unsecured cable dragging or flexing every time wind moves the dish puts constant strain on the power connector — leading to intermittent power drops that look exactly like signal dropouts.
The fix: Proper cable management as part of the mount install. Our Gen 3 Router & Power Holder keeps everything clipped, tidy and strain-free.
5. Wrong angle for your latitude
The problem: Starlink auto-orients, but a mount that can't hold a steep enough tilt (or is fighting an awkward wall/roof angle) limits how well it can lock on.
The fix: An articulated mount with full tilt and swivel range gives the dish room to find its ideal angle, rather than being stuck fighting your wall's angle.
6. Mounted somewhere that gets walked past or knocked
The problem: Anything in a high-traffic area — near a doorway, on a low fence, next to where the bins go — is one accidental bump away from a dropout or a cracked housing.
The fix: Mount it somewhere genuinely out of the way. If height and space are tight, a pole mount gets it up and clear of foot traffic entirely.
7. Vehicle mount that's not actually rated for vibration
The problem: Corrugations, highway speeds and rough tracks will loosen a mount that's not built for vibration — leading to signal loss right when you need it most (i.e., in the middle of nowhere).
The fix: Purpose-built vehicle mounts. Our Magnetic Mount and Suction Mount are tested for exactly this kind of punishment.
The pattern here? It's (almost) never the Starlink
Elon's satellites are doing their job. The dish is doing its job. The mount is usually where things fall apart — and it's also the cheapest, easiest fix in the entire setup.
Shop the full Get Mounted range and stop losing bars to a problem a $50-$100 mount already solves.
Still getting dropouts after a proper mount install? Flick us a message at Sales@GetMounted.com.au or 0452 371 345 - we'll help troubleshoot.